Len Evans Tutorial 2014

James Halliday has been part of the Len Evans Tutorial since the beginning, and this year is providing a birds eye view of each days’ proceedings. This is the 14th annual Tutorial, always held in the Hunter Valley where it all began under the baton of Len Evans.

Each of the first four days of the Len Evans Tutorial has an important component: the judging of 30 wines from a specified variety or varieties. They are judged blind by the four tutors and by the 12 scholars (as they are known) who have successfully applied for a place (out of a field of over 100). They are variously winemakers, sommeliers, wine educators, viticulturists or retailers/distributors. The tutors are Iain Riggs, Ian McKenzie, Tim James and myself, Gary Steel an ex officio member for some of the proceedings.

We (the Tutors) go to a separate room after tasting the wines in silence and knowing no more than the scholars about the wines: their variety/style, and the vintage of the youngest and oldest wines in the class. White wines are judge from young to old, red wines from old to young. The Tutors call out their points for each wine precisely as they would in a wine show, and arrive at a consensus score (out of 100). In the majority of instances the points are so closely grouped there is little need for discussion; if one of the tutor’s score is significantly different, discussion usually resolves the discrepancy; rarely (one or two wines per class) we may agree to a quick re-taste on returning to the judging room.

The Scholars do not have the opportunity to discuss each wine (12 tasters makes this impractical), and they take it in turns to call out their points. Without knowing the Tutors’ consensus score, four or five will be asked to talk about the wine, and why they gave the points they did. They won’t know at this stage whether their score is higher, lower or the same as that of the Tutors.

This process proceeds one wine at a tie, and once completed, the steward announces the name of the wine. Normally he/she (the steward) will have selected the wines for the class – these are highly experienced Hunter Valley winemakers who in bygone days were themselves Scholars; by chance, three this year are present, incoming or recently retired Chairs of Capital City Wine Shows.

On Monday afternoon we judged the Northern Rhône varieties Shiraz and Shiraz Viognier blends. The wines and their scores were:

1. 2006 Kusuda (Martinborough) - 89
2. 2007 E. Guigal La Mouline (Cote-Rotie) - 94
3. 2007 M. Chapoutier Le Pavillon (Hermitage) - 95
4. 2008 La Collina (Hawke’s Bay) - 90
5. 2008 Penfolds Grange (BV) - 95
6. 2009 Dom. JL Chave Hermitage (Hermitage) - 82
7. 2009 Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier (Murrumbateman) - 91
8. 2009 E. Guigal La Landonne (Cote-Rotie) - 95
9. 2010 E. Guigal Ex Voto (Hermitage) - 96
10. 2010 Henschke Mount Edelstone (Eden Valley) - 89
11. 2010 Dom. Rene Rostaing Cote-Rotie Blonde (Cote-Rotie) - 90
12. 2010 Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge (Grampians) - 94
13. 2010 Dom. Vincent Paris Granite 60 (Cornas) - 96
14. 2010 Penfolds St Henri (South Australia) - 95
15. 2010 Paul Jaboulet Aine La Chapelle (Hermitage) - 86
16. Yves Cuilleron Le Village (Cornas) - 95
17. 2011 Delas Hermitage Les Bessards (Hermitage) - 93
18. 2011 Pepper Tree Wines Coquun (Hunter Valley) - 93
19. 2011 Dom. Jamet (Cote-Rotie) - 95
20. 2011 Yves Cuilleron Les Serines (St-Joseph) - 96
21. 2011 Best’s Great Western Shiraz No. 1 (Grampians) - 93
22. 2011 Dom. Auguste Clape (Cornas) - 89
23. 2012 John Duval Entity (Barossa Valley) - 95
24. 2012 Shaw + Smith (Adelaide Hills) - 96
25. 2012 Dom. Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage (Crozes-Hermitage) - 80
26. 2012 Head Wines Brunette (Barossa Valley) - 94
27. 2012 The Lane Vineyard Block 14 (Adelaide Hills) - 95
28. 2012 Hentley Farm The Beauty (Barossa Valley) - N/S
29. 2013 The Radford Dale Nudity (South Africa) - 82
30. 2013 Brokenwood Mistress Block (Hunter Valley) - 96

Menu

Monday:

1st EntréeCountry Fried Jumbo Quail with honey, pecan glaze

2nd EntréeCharred Garam Masala Scented Foie Gras, with cinnamon lemons, pea shoots, rose petals and spiced jus

MainRoulade of Duck Breast and Jamon, with pickled baby beetroot, braised beetroot greens, aioli and star dust

DessertCherry Bombe Alaska, with cognac poached cherries, cherry gel and almond crumble

CheeseL’Artisan Extravagant Triple Cream Brie (Timboon, Victoria)

Each evening blind flights of wines are served, with one Tutor (myself Monday evening) running the Options games for each flight or single/double wines). The wines were:

Pre-Dinner Option

1. 1982 Bollinger RD (Champagne)

Dry White

1. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Butteaux' (Chablis)
2. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis ' Les Forets' (Chablis)
3. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Courgis (Chablis)
4. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Valmur' (Chablis)
5. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Les Preuses' (Chablis)
6. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis 'Terrior (Chablis)

Option

1. 2001 Dom. JF Coche-Dury Mersault (Mersault)

Dry Red

1. 1983 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
2. 1993 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
3. 1995 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
4. 1996 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
5. 2002 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)
6. 2010 Wendouree Shiraz (Clare Valley)

                                                       
Options

1. 1959 Avery’s Vosne Romanee le Suchots
2. 1959 Dom. Armand Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin

Dry Red

1. 1970 Château Cheval Blanc (St-Emillon)
2. 1970 Château Latour (Pauillac)
3. 1970 Château Mouton-Rothschild (Pauillac)
4. 1970 Château Cos dÉstournel (St-Estèphe)
5. 1970 Château Leoville Las Cases (St –Julien)
6. 1970 Château de Pez (St-Estèphe)

Options

1. 1990 James Halliday Coonawarra Cabernet (Coonawarra)
2. 1991 James Halliday Coonawarra Cabernet (Coonawarra)
3. 1992 James Halliday Coonawarra Cabernet (Coonawarra)

Sweet Whites

1. 1975 Château d’Yquem (Sauternes)
2. 1975 Château Filhot Comtesse Durieu de Lacarelle (Sauternes)
3. 1975 Château Coutet Barsac (Barsac)

On Tuesday morning, 30 Chardonnays were judged; they (and their points) were as follows:

1. 2013 Deep Woods Estate Reserve (Margaret River) - 94
2. 2012 Shaw + Smith M3 (Adelaide Hills) - 90
3. 2012 Patrick Piuze Blanchot (Chablis) - 83
4. 2012 Tyrrell’s Belford (Hunter Valley) - 94
5. 2012 Coldstream Hills Reserve (Yarra Valley) - 96
6. 2012 Felton Road (Bannockburn) - 88
7. 2012 Xanadu Stevens Road (Margaret River) - 95
8. 2011 Bruno Clair Corton Charlemagne (Corton) - 90
9. 2011 Dawson and James (Derwent Valley) - 95
10. 2011 Devils lair 9th Chamber (Margaret River) - 94
11. 2011 Leroy Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot (Chassagne Montrachet) - 80
12. 2011 Château Puligny Montrachet Chaveliar Montrachet (Puligny Montrachet) - 95
13. 2010 Yabby lake Single Vineyard (Mornington Peninsula) - 95
14. 2010  Etiene Sauzet Batard Montrachet (Puligny Montrachet) - 84
15. 2010  Dom. Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne GC (Corton) - 96
16. 2010  Penfolds Yattarna (Tasmania/Adelaide Hills) - 95
17. 2010  Villa Maria Barrique Fermented (Gisborne) - 91
18. 2010  Louis Moreau Les Clos (Chablis) - 93
19. 2010  Cullen Kevin John (Margaret River) - 88
20. 2010  Giaconda Estate Vineyard (Beechworth) - 91
21. 2009  Bouchard Chevalier Montrachet (Puligny Montrachet) - 96
22. 2009  Dom. JF Coche-Dury Meursault (Meursault) - 95
23. 2009  Dom. Blain-Gagnard Croits Bâtard-Montrachet (Chassagne-Montrachet) - 95
24. 2009  Dom. William Fèvre Les Preuses GC (Chablis) - 95
25. 2009  Olivier Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) - 95
26. 2009  Oakridge Lieu-Dit (Yarra Valley) - 94
27. 2008  Dom. Ramonet Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot (Chassagne Montrachet) - 80
28. 2008  Bastard Hill (Yarra Valley) - 95
29. 2007  Dom. Blain-Gagnard Croits Bâtard-Montrachet (Chassagne Montrachet) - 93
30. 2006  Leeuwin Estate Art Series (Margaret River) - 96

In the afternoon prior to the running of the Melbourne Cup, we tasted (not blind) 14 champagnes; 2002 Bollinger RD edging out the 2000 Krug by a bare margin as the preferred wine, with strong support for the Billecart-Salmon Les Clos St Hilaire.

Menu

Tuesday

1st Entrée
Tempura Ricotta Filled Zucchini Flowers, with pinenuts, currants and basil pesto sauce

2nd Entrée
Confit Pork Belly, with home grown peas, snow peas, Cyprus black sea salt and beetroot puree

Main
Grilled Aged Rangers Valley Rib Eye, with garden salad, potato puree, green beans, béarnaise sauce and jus

Dessert
Sweet Endings, a selection of home made petit fours, chocolates and sweets

Cheese
Morbier (France)

Last night the dinner wines were:

Pre-Dinner Options

1. 1999      Arras EJ Carr (Pipers River/Derwent Valley)

Dry White

1. 1961 Douglas Elliot Oakvale Hunter Valley Riesling (Hunter Valley)
2. 1961 Martin and Sons Bin 342 Limited Riesling (Hunter Valley)

        
Dry White

1. 2000 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
2. 2001 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
3. 2002 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
4. 2003 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)
5. 2004 Trimbach Clos St Hune (Alsace)

Dry Red

1. 2010 Yabby Lake Single Block Release (Mornington Peninsula)
2. 2010 Château Confuron Cotetidot Echezeaux GC (Flagey-Echezeaux)
3. 2010 Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley)
4. 2010 Dom. De la Vougeraie Musigny (Cote de Nuits)
5. 2010 Last Horizon Pinot Noir (Huon Valley)

Dry Red

1. 1971 Doudet-Naudin Pommard (Pommard)
2. 1971 Doudet-Naudin Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Les Guettes (Cote-de-Beaune)
3. 1971 Bernard Grivelet Clos du Roi Corton (Corton)

Options

1. L. Bertolo Barbaresco Riserva Speciale (Barbaresco)

Old Dry Red

1. 1959 AWCCS – Douglas Elliot Bin 335 - Medium Bodied (Hunter Valley)
2. 1965 Lindemans Bin 3110 HRB (Hunter Valley)
3. 1965 Douglas Elliot Tallawanta Hermitage (Hunter Valley)
4. 1967 Lindemans HRB Bin 3565 Hermitage (Hunter Valley)
5. 1968 Tullochs Pokolbin Dry Red Private Bin (Hunter Valley)

             
Fortified

1. NV Seppeltsfield Classic Tokay GR06 (Rutherglen)
2. NV Seppeltsfield Grand Tokay DP57 (Rutherglen)
3. NV Seppeltsfield Rare Tokay DP59 (Rutherglen)
4. NV Seppeltsfield Museum Tokay DP64 (Rutherglen)